Double Wars departure

vapen
I have been almost finished packing since yesterday, did the rest of the assembling of stuff today, and early tomorrow morning Katheryn arrives off the ferry to pick us, and our gargantuan load of stuff up.

I tried to pack light-ish. I really did.

p.s. My main updates are still over on wordpress.com

Moving day

vapen
... in fact, most every new post that I previously would have posted here will now be found on the wordpress site.

The reason for the move is that while I have loved LiveJournal it has been surpassed by other platforms in terms of ease of use. I will not be throwing this blog away, as it still contains such a lot of good and useful and fun information to be mined.

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Update on the dress...

vapen
... can be found over at the new wordpress blog: here.

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Another week closer to Spring Crown Tourney

garb
I will be finished with my gown by then. I will, I will, I will.

Actually, I don't have too terribly much left. I managed to stitch in the skirt entirely this week, as well as finish off the front closure with hooks and eyes over the lacing.

Still left to do, at sewing circle tomorrow, is evening up the hem, and hemming. Cutting out and making up a pair of huge sleeves and applying miles of black satin trim. The hem will go quickly, the trim will be dull but go quickly, the making of sleeves will be a pain in the behind.

So the plan for tomorrows sewing circle is

  1. put on the dress to have the hem measured out evenly

  2. invent and draft sleeve pattern

  3. For extra credit, make up toile sleeve in cotton (unsure if I'm going for extra credit)

  4. cut out actual sleeves and start making them.



I think that I will have to do boring hemming and trim application at home, during the week.

I also have some scribal things to finish for Spring Crown, special commission work. I'm writing up invitations for an invitational HF tourney at Double Wars. They've been fun to do, although doing ten identical ones is a little tedious.

At Spring Crown, when the dress will be finished, I will come turned out in an all new outfit. New red knitted stockings, new red knitted half-gloves, new black wool gown and new oxblood red leather shoes. It's going to be awesome, and I can't wait! It will be my first time in Polderslot (The Netherlands).

Preparations

vapen
Preparations for tomorrow's sewing circle. I bought some sturdy cotton to make a toile or two out of. I am so excited! Yay!

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Social Media...

research
So I hang out mostly on facebook these days. It happend a couple of years ago, everyone moved their event photos to facebook, and the social life moved along with it as well. So to keep myself updated, in the loop and able to see ALL THE EVENT PHOTOS FROM EVERYWHERE! I created my account and started migrating. The migration was not conscious, but it's what happens.

Anyway, lately I've hung out on one group called Elizabethan Costume, which unlike most other forums of over one thousand participants, is actually a civil place with a high signal-to-noise ratio. The other day one of the cooler people on there, Mathew Gnagy, posted a very rough version of a method to draft a 16th century female bodice based on a few measurements.

I downloaded the pdf immediately and poured over it. I took out an old newspaper, a tape measure and pens and drafted myself up a bodice pattern. Then I checked back on the group and discovered that one of the points I felt unsure about was mis-labeled and one measurement was "upside down". A new version of the drafting instructions was available. I poured over that, took my measurements again and did a second draft of a bodice.

After doing the first one I was glad that my internet had a little hiccup, because it was one of the few times I've felt non-content with the shape of my body.

On Saturday the first official sewing meeting of the year kicks off, and I will get new measurements and draft up a third version of the bodice, with the help of Helwig. I will likewise help her, and we will really get rolling on our new communal project. Gowns from 1575 England.

Social Media, what's it good for? Apparently some things.

Finished hose - in pictures

GFD Garb
These hose were cut out in 2005... so they've been a project for nine years. That's just depressing.

When I uploaded the finished item shot to my album I found the image of the pattern pieces cut out:



And finished:

Another finished project - hose

GFD Garb
Sewn hose. They are possibly the most boring thing ever to sew. It took me two years to finish the first pair I cut out at a sewing circle where we produced hose patterns left right and centre.

Yesterday I picked up a pair of hose which were half finished. Literally. One hose was done, the other was only pinned.
Tonight I finished the second one and I have a whole pair of hose, my second pair of sewn hose.

They look like... ungood. I've not tried them on properly. I'll probably pull them on and try for a photo tomorrow.

Anyway, sewn hose in a brown check are finished and will be used at events. Definitely need garters to keep from falling down, but that's fine, I have a lovely pair of red leather garters.

Split stitch Dragon Rose finished!

embroidery
I finally did it. I decided it was time to just knuckle down and finish the damn napkin already, and by golly I did it.

The project started before Double Wars two years ago, in 2012, when I was asked to be on the team of Countess Cecilia for a special tourney/fund raiser thing at Double Wars.

I was her artisan, tasked with making something, anything using the design of a rose with a dragon on top. I decided to make a quick little item, a square linen napkin. I hemstitched it all around prettily and then transferred the design to the fabric and started embroidering. The only problem was I chose to do the rose rather big - about 6 inches in diameter.

The thread is a 30/2 silk bought at the Handweavers Studio and Gallery in London and all outlines are chain stitch, while the rest of the bulk of the stitching is split stitch. I had my colours, but the rose was designed with a fade from red to yellow, which I thought I might do in long and short stitch. I tried it first on one petal but it was awful so I unpicked it and decided on just doing semi-circles with progressively less yellow and more red until I had made the transition from all yellow to all red.

My pattern-seeing brain needs to know where the stitches go and when, so the pattern is
7 yellow stitches, then 1 red, repeated to the end of the semicircle.
Then 6 yellow, 1 red,
then 5 and 1, then 4 and 1, then 3 and 1, then 2 and 1
then either 2 and 2, or 1 and 1
then 1 yellow and 2 red
then 1 and 3, then 1 and 4, then 1 and 5, then 1 and 6, then 1 and 7 and finally all red.

It worked very well where I had an uninterrupted field to stitch on, the problems began with the three petals which were not clear of Dragon limbs. One petal has a little too little red in it, but in all, I'm fairly pleased, and when I revealed it on facebook the winner of this item seemed pleased as well.

Yeah, the napkin was won in a raffle at Double Wars 2012, and it was there to be displayed, but I took it back with me to finish. It's been one of those little niggling projects that I really should have finished long ago, but when I didn't manage to do it by the deadline (on account of choosing such a large size!) it sort of got left behind.

Anyway, here are the pics:
Full frontal:
Slanted front, shows the silk shading better:
The back of the work looking a little messy:
A close-up of one of the nicer petals with shading:

Kneeling cushion finished!

vapen
The big woolen embroidery that I designed to make kneeling cushions for my principality (Nordmark) has now finally been made into an actual cushion!

The embroidery has been finished for a year and a half, done on linen fabric donated by Kerstin Tygkrämare of www.medeltidsmode.se and with woolen threaddyed and donated by Lady Åsa vävare.

I supplied the polyfoam filling and black velvet fabric to go on the edges and on the back, and even did the very crude mark stitching on the back to indicate who made the cushion and when.

I am still undecided if they should be donated outright as regalia or if I should keep hold of them and bring them to events. They are ... sort of large.

Test post + To do list!

research
So I downloaded Semagic again to post to LJ. Perhaps this will mean more lj updates in the future.

I wanted to start on a list of projects in a to do list:

5 Creative pay-it-forward items (PiF2014)
1) For Cristina Stolte
2) For Aryanhwy merch Catmael
3) For Catlin Woodmane
4) For Arianhwy Wen
5) For Alfhild de Foxley

I know what I'm doing for 1-4, 5 is not yet set.
I'll be working on a budget for them, so they won't be fancy, but should be a fun way for me to practice some skills.

Other things on my to-do list

6) Kneeling cushion for Nordmark that just. needs. finishing.
7) Embroider and make up second kneeling cushion
8) Second-layer supportive gown for my 1400 wardrobe
9) Third layer pretty gown for my 1400 wardrobe
10) Matching set of wimple and veil for my 1400 wardrobe
11) New silk flags
12) Finish the silk tablet-weaving
13) Finish adding studs to almost finished belt
14) Finish napkin DW raffle prize (the shame...)
15) Finish Helwig's Scroll (the shame...)
16) Finish backlog scroll on my plate

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Year in review - delayed

vapen
I usually make a post with the summary of all the things I've finished during the year, but I've been very bad about keeping this blog up to date, so that's going to be a harder task than usual.

I was asked over the holidays what I'd done since last I saw said person and I started by saying I hadn't done anything at all, then I remembered a bunch of stuff I made for others.

So, there's a bunch of stuff I've done in 2013, vigil gifts, a dress for a queen, and some scrolls. I might get around to doing a proper update later.
vapen
So, at Glötagillet, the event in Gyllengran this past weekend I brought the new black tablet weaving with text, plus thread and the hood to do edgeweaving.

The plan was to do the hood first, then continue with the tabletweaving. Yeah, that didn't happen as the edge weaving was super-annoying. I managed about ten centimetres before I gave up and switched back to the new belt.

Yesterday when I got home and today I continued working on it, and I finished the entire warp now. So, at home I managed two whole repeats of my device, at the event I did one more, and I did it twice more again before reaching the end. So it's on there five entire times. It's practically impossible to make out though, as black wool on black wool doesn't cast much shade.

In other news, at Glötagillet, I had the honour and pleasure to deliver a writ of summons to Viscountess Anna Laresdotter to contemplate elevation to the Order of the Laurel at Lucia Feast/Baronial Investiture. We received the official word early Friday afternoon that Their Majesties had decided to give her the offer. I was contacted by His Majesty and called him up an hour or so before my travel-mates were due to pick me up. They thought it would be nicer for her to receive the news at an event rather than via a phonecall, and asked if I and Helwig were willing to deliver it to her. I asked if they wanted me to write up a writ to deliver and he said that would be delightful.

So, I had about an hour to do some calligraphy. That was a bit stressful, and the writing wasn't my best ever. Not helped by the fact that when I did the pencil lines (using my Ames guide) I didn't pay close enough attention and ended up using the wrong row of holes, so after two lines had to basically write by eye rather than on a nicely drawn out line. Gaah! I didn't notice that mistake until I came to the third line of calligraphy, so couldn't really start over.

I was kind of sweating and my heart was beating quite fast, with thoughts and memories of receiving my own writ (which is what I used for inspiration for the text).

It turned out decent, and I think it was the right choice to give Anna something tangible to take home.

It was also one of the most awesome things I've gotten to do in the SCA so far.

Vivat! for Anna Laresdotter, our next little Laurel :)

Weaving adventures

GFD Garb
So I went to sewing circle last Saturday and Helwig was working on some lovely tablet weaving from a new book. For some reason I seem to be able to see the patterns, and understand what is happeing and going wrong, so I helped her disentangle and wove a little bit. Which let me remember that I actually kind of like the actual tablet weaving experience.

I have done it before, once. I warped a brown and white cotton yarm which I wove into a "belt", for the bliaut I was making in 2004 (I think it was). The actual weaving was lovely and went fast. The warping was icky. Ever since I have wanted to make a silk girdle using turn-based patterns to weave something lovely that just shows up in the shading.

So I made up three patterns for turn-based letters for the three words of my motto: "facio, disco, gaudeo" using Guntram's Tablet Weaving Thingy. He had a gorgeous alphabet already made up, but it takes 40 tablets and I only have 39 tablets at present. Which meant I couldn't add edges. So, the patterns I made up consists of 20 tablets, plus two on either side as an edge.

The warping I did utilising a doorhandle and an over-the-door hanger which I could run between. I warped the 20 pattern tablets in black wool, and the four (2 + 2) edge tablets I warped in green wool. Today I threaded the tablets in and started the weaving using a black linen as my weft. I think I started my pattern a little too soon, before the tension had worked itself out and I'd gotten the braid a uniform width. However, that won't be too bad, as the shade differentiation between black wool leaning to the left and black wool leaning to the right is not very visible.

I've got one letter left to do on the first word (which is gaudeo, as they weave from right to left), and I am enjoying it as I remembered. However, the working position isn't the best. and I'm not entirely sure what I can make with the length I warped. It might become a belt. We'll see.

Also I measured out all the string for the other project I will be working on this weekend - which is edge-weaving on a red open chaperone, as seen on many ladies in ca 1400 illustrations. Not currently sure I want to do that with tablets or the lovely rigid heddle I got last year. I measured out enough yarn to fill eight tablets in any case, so I can make the call on Saturday.

Scribal project finished

vapen
I took on an assignment for a scroll for Crown Tourney, which I finished in time to get it off to Their Majesties. Except I forgot it at home on Wednesday so had to mail it on Thursday, which meant it didn't get to them in time to bring to the event. Augh! But this is a prepared Royal Couple, so I had already sent the text as I wrote it out, and on Friday I sent a cell phone picture to them so they will be able to read the scroll text in court and tell the recipient that their scroll will be in the mail.

If my count is right, that will be project #57, which considering I started doing this in the fall of 2002 means I've done an average of 5 scrolls per year, which I think is pretty decent. There are other scribes in the Kingdom who do many many more, though, and with our new policy of also publishing the name of the scribes in court reports in our newsletter they will get some well-deserved attention.

And there is still a massive backlog of things I haven't updated my webpage with.

A new project - Green wool jacket

vapen
So, since I listed three perfectly reasonable projects I have on the slate in my last post I started a completely different one today.

I had time to start a new sewing project and my fingers were itching to do it - once I realized that, I pulled out my fabric stash and examined it. I noticed the cut of a yummy green wool twill, the same as my lord Edricus also bought, which I got a meter and a half of for a jacket to match. I pulled out a lovely black linen which is a very fine quality for the lining, and a coarser purple linen for interlining for the fronts as I want it to be a bit smoother than I've had it be previously.

I cut out the jacket, minus sleeves, in the wool, interlining and lining, and I officially have a sewing project to work on - whee!

I'm also registered for the Shire of Gyllengran's yearly A&S event Glötagillet, which is always nice and cozy. The theme there this year is finishing touches, and I'm planning on doing edge-weaving on the almost finished hood that has been almost finished for two years. Maybe it will finally get finished and I can start using it.

Possible Projects

research
I have in my stash plenty of fabric to make some new and awesome outfits.

I have a cut of grey wool to make a replacement grey wool layton jacket for the one I shrunk in the washing machine. It was an awesome jacket, with special button loops that I made as a 5-loop fingerloop (flat, round flat). I loved that jacket. And I shrunk it in the washine machine. But I'm totally over that now. I have the nice buttons left from the old jacket.

I have two cuts of black wool to make base kirtles. Front lacing, low square opening, some stiffening, possible pockets. Possibly with a plaquet in front to conceal the front lacing.

I have dark brown silk, and brown/bronze polyester brocade to make a high-class outfit. Maybe for a 1575 project. Which probably needs a new farthingale. Also new corset, maybe finish one of the two (2) I have started but not finished. I finally made a pinterest board for this project.

The first two are not exceptionally inspiring, but I miss a good jacket. The black kirtles would mean I would finally have a base layer that I can use with every other outer garment I already have. The third is more of a Project, more tricky bits and not entirely transparent to me right now.

All I have to do is decide which one to pick. Which one to pick..

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Fan-girl moment

garb
So, in the early days of the Internets, when rocks were soft and I was just starting out making 16th Century clothes there were two websites we would all go to. Festive Attyre and The Elizabethan Costuming Page. I was honoured to be a Featured Attyre with my first (and so far only) full Tudor court gown, with fur-lined turn-back sleeves and everything.

Yesterday I was even more honoured that my red petticoat was picked by Drea Leed to be the example of what a petticoat is: http://www.elizabethancostume.net/blog/elizabethan-petticoats/

I have been going Squee! like a total fangirl all morning :)

Scribal nights are going again

vapen

Scribal night at my place again. First time in too long. Last week I volunteered to take on a scroll commission for Fall Crown in order to get a kick in the behind to actually sit down and do some scribal work. It worked beautifully.

 

I started as usual by roughly laying out the entire page, then doing lines with my amazing new ames guide. Then I had to sit down to composer a suitable text long enough to fit the area for writing. With the assistance of some gifflar(sic) I managed it and currently I'm taking a break to let the ink dry on half of my text. If I tried to do the rest right away I would ruin it all.
This should make the fifty sixth scribal project for me. And my website is woefully out of date.

 

Progress report

vapen

Thanks to some misscommunication I got a lot of sewing done this morning and all of the construction seams are sewn (four out of six done on the machine) and felled (all by hand) on the new wool herjolfsnes dress.

 

Now I have to try it on and determine how I want the neckline to look and but our and sew sleeves.

Jul. 24th, 2013

vapen

Seaming together the side gores. Two long pieces with a little piecing at the top. Going well. Seam on the machine and prickstitching the seam allowance down by hand.

 

GFD Garb
While in exile in the Frozen (again) I've been working on a couple of things. First, a chemise for which I got my Cudgel War fee paid - excellent trade by the way - and some wool applique for Queen Siobhan II and finally something for myself which will turn into a wool replacement of a linen gown I've had for five years.

The wool is a small length which I had gotten before to make a shawl out of. It's a houndstooth check in black and yellow with green, blue and red highlights. Not anything I'd make a "real" dress out of, but it's a gorgeous light flowing wool, which I will use to throw on when I set-up and tear-down camp at Visby. Or for the first thing to throw on when I arrive at an event and don't want to spend half an hour dressing.

The idea is to replace the linen gown I made to be a kitchen slave at a Coronet tourney with a slightly more accurate and light-weight version in wool, so I am using the Greenland finds again, Herjolfsnes 39 detailed online by Marc I. Carlsson. My previous version I have described as the most boring dress ever, and it is tagged as linen herjolfsnes here on LJ. This version will be herjolfsnes39 wool, and as the fabric is yummy I think I'll like it a little more.

So far, I have cut out body panels (50 cm wide, 140 cm long), and gores, about 110 cm long and will end up adding something like 50 cm in four places to the hem. The sleeves are as yet not cut out, I didn't bring any sleeve patterns with me so I will have to wing it. Luckily since this is a very simple and non-fitted dress this will not be a big problem.

My goal is to have this finished for Visby. We'll see how that goes :)

test

vapen

so I downloaded the LJ app for my mobile. Maybe I'll start posting more again now. . .

 

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Projects for others

vapen
I've been doing a little bit of sewing and crafts the past couple of months. I have embroidered acorns and oakleaves on a chemise. A row down either arm and around the neckline of a 16th Century smock for Alfhild who has been working on creating a late period wardrobe for Twenty Years. It was a freehand pattern which I embroidered in running stitch using black buttonhole silk.

At Double Wars I agreed to embroider a set of collar and cuffs for Countess Cecilia. She had seen one of my other shirts with assissi style embroidery with long-armed cross stitch creating a pattern of coronets in the voids and she wanted a similar set.
A week after Double Wars she sent me a piece of the fabric she was using for the rest of the shirts and I prepared and embroidered on them using my 60/2 silk from the Handweaver's Studio in London.

Previously to this I'd agreed to make a landsknecht shirt for Mistress Johanna with smocking. She wanted one to use as a working shirt, to be washable. I got a nice 50/50 linen/cotton which I've used before with good results and made up most of the shirt in short order, then proceeded to procrastinate on the smocking until the embroideries above were done. This week, however, I picked the almost finished shirt up again and finished the gathering and smocking stitches. A simple honeycomb for the cuffs and a little more intricate pattern for the collar. It's made from a very simple pattern which I haven't tried before with shirts. The shoulders are all in a line with the side seam and the collar is all made from the front and back panels which are simple rectangles. No shaping anywhere, except for the smocking. These shirts have a tendency to tear at the shoulder points after a while, so I've tried to reinforce those points without going overboard and making it uncomfortable.
Left to do on this shirt is now two sets of ties and it will be all done. I will either deliver it via SCA post or bring it with me to Cudgel War. At Cudgel I will also try to deliver a second chemise, of a Cranach kind to Lady Kerttu. I have a gorgeous light linen from Stoff&Stil which I have yet to try to work with but which I am sure will be a joy to sew.

Yeah.. lots of projects and none for me. I did pick up some lovely chocolate silk at Double Wars which will become a basic kirtle for me. I guess I won't start that until after Visby Medieval Week though, as before all of that I have a wool applique project to do. We (Helwig, Isabetta, William and myself) are making a heraldic gown for our Crown Princess and I've got one half to do. The pieces are all cut out, and the two halves are ready for applique. Isabetta and me did the two long side seams at the sewing circle on Saturday, as well as cut out the applique pieces. Now that the smocked shirt is done this will be my project and I'll be aiming to finish it before I go up to the Frozen North. It has a deadline of before Pennsic, but the dress needs to be put together as well. While up north I will hopefully do the Cranach chemise to finish and bring with me to Cudgel War. Although it does not have a hard deadline I work better if I do set a deadline.

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