The plan was to do the hood first, then continue with the tabletweaving. Yeah, that didn't happen as the edge weaving was super-annoying. I managed about ten centimetres before I gave up and switched back to the new belt.
Yesterday when I got home and today I continued working on it, and I finished the entire warp now. So, at home I managed two whole repeats of my device, at the event I did one more, and I did it twice more again before reaching the end. So it's on there five entire times. It's practically impossible to make out though, as black wool on black wool doesn't cast much shade.
In other news, at Glötagillet, I had the honour and pleasure to deliver a writ of summons to Viscountess Anna Laresdotter to contemplate elevation to the Order of the Laurel at Lucia Feast/Baronial Investiture. We received the official word early Friday afternoon that Their Majesties had decided to give her the offer. I was contacted by His Majesty and called him up an hour or so before my travel-mates were due to pick me up. They thought it would be nicer for her to receive the news at an event rather than via a phonecall, and asked if I and Helwig were willing to deliver it to her. I asked if they wanted me to write up a writ to deliver and he said that would be delightful.
So, I had about an hour to do some calligraphy. That was a bit stressful, and the writing wasn't my best ever. Not helped by the fact that when I did the pencil lines (using my Ames guide) I didn't pay close enough attention and ended up using the wrong row of holes, so after two lines had to basically write by eye rather than on a nicely drawn out line. Gaah! I didn't notice that mistake until I came to the third line of calligraphy, so couldn't really start over.
I was kind of sweating and my heart was beating quite fast, with thoughts and memories of receiving my own writ (which is what I used for inspiration for the text).
It turned out decent, and I think it was the right choice to give Anna something tangible to take home.
It was also one of the most awesome things I've gotten to do in the SCA so far.
Vivat! for Anna Laresdotter, our next little Laurel :)
I have done it before, once. I warped a brown and white cotton yarm which I wove into a "belt", for the bliaut I was making in 2004 (I think it was). The actual weaving was lovely and went fast. The warping was icky. Ever since I have wanted to make a silk girdle using turn-based patterns to weave something lovely that just shows up in the shading.
So I made up three patterns for turn-based letters for the three words of my motto: "facio, disco, gaudeo" using Guntram's Tablet Weaving Thingy. He had a gorgeous alphabet already made up, but it takes 40 tablets and I only have 39 tablets at present. Which meant I couldn't add edges. So, the patterns I made up consists of 20 tablets, plus two on either side as an edge.
The warping I did utilising a doorhandle and an over-the-door hanger which I could run between. I warped the 20 pattern tablets in black wool, and the four (2 + 2) edge tablets I warped in green wool. Today I threaded the tablets in and started the weaving using a black linen as my weft. I think I started my pattern a little too soon, before the tension had worked itself out and I'd gotten the braid a uniform width. However, that won't be too bad, as the shade differentiation between black wool leaning to the left and black wool leaning to the right is not very visible.
I've got one letter left to do on the first word (which is gaudeo, as they weave from right to left), and I am enjoying it as I remembered. However, the working position isn't the best. and I'm not entirely sure what I can make with the length I warped. It might become a belt. We'll see.
Also I measured out all the string for the other project I will be working on this weekend - which is edge-weaving on a red open chaperone, as seen on many ladies in ca 1400 illustrations. Not currently sure I want to do that with tablets or the lovely rigid heddle I got last year. I measured out enough yarn to fill eight tablets in any case, so I can make the call on Saturday.
If my count is right, that will be project #57, which considering I started doing this in the fall of 2002 means I've done an average of 5 scrolls per year, which I think is pretty decent. There are other scribes in the Kingdom who do many many more, though, and with our new policy of also publishing the name of the scribes in court reports in our newsletter they will get some well-deserved attention.
And there is still a massive backlog of things I haven't updated my webpage with.
I had time to start a new sewing project and my fingers were itching to do it - once I realized that, I pulled out my fabric stash and examined it. I noticed the cut of a yummy green wool twill, the same as my lord Edricus also bought, which I got a meter and a half of for a jacket to match. I pulled out a lovely black linen which is a very fine quality for the lining, and a coarser purple linen for interlining for the fronts as I want it to be a bit smoother than I've had it be previously.
I cut out the jacket, minus sleeves, in the wool, interlining and lining, and I officially have a sewing project to work on - whee!
I'm also registered for the Shire of Gyllengran's yearly A&S event Glötagillet, which is always nice and cozy. The theme there this year is finishing touches, and I'm planning on doing edge-weaving on the almost finished hood that has been almost finished for two years. Maybe it will finally get finished and I can start using it.
I have a cut of grey wool to make a replacement grey wool layton jacket for the one I shrunk in the washing machine. It was an awesome jacket, with special button loops that I made as a 5-loop fingerloop (flat, round flat). I loved that jacket. And I shrunk it in the washine machine. But I'm totally over that now. I have the nice buttons left from the old jacket.
I have two cuts of black wool to make base kirtles. Front lacing, low square opening, some stiffening, possible pockets. Possibly with a plaquet in front to conceal the front lacing.
I have dark brown silk, and brown/bronze polyester brocade to make a high-class outfit. Maybe for a 1575 project. Which probably needs a new farthingale. Also new corset, maybe finish one of the two (2) I have started but not finished. I finally made a pinterest board for this project.
The first two are not exceptionally inspiring, but I miss a good jacket. The black kirtles would mean I would finally have a base layer that I can use with every other outer garment I already have. The third is more of a Project, more tricky bits and not entirely transparent to me right now.
All I have to do is decide which one to pick. Which one to pick..
Yesterday I was even more honoured that my red petticoat was picked by Drea Leed to be the example of what a petticoat is: http://www.elizabethancostume.net/blog/e
I have been going Squee! like a total fangirl all morning :)
Scribal night at my place again. First time in too long. Last week I volunteered to take on a scroll commission for Fall Crown in order to get a kick in the behind to actually sit down and do some scribal work. It worked beautifully.
I started as usual by roughly laying out the entire page, then doing lines with my amazing new ames guide. Then I had to sit down to composer a suitable text long enough to fit the area for writing. With the assistance of some gifflar(sic) I managed it and currently I'm taking a break to let the ink dry on half of my text. If I tried to do the rest right away I would ruin it all.
This should make the fifty sixth scribal project for me. And my website is woefully out of date.
Thanks to some misscommunication I got a lot of sewing done this morning and all of the construction seams are sewn (four out of six done on the machine) and felled (all by hand) on the new wool herjolfsnes dress.
Now I have to try it on and determine how I want the neckline to look and but our and sew sleeves.
Seaming together the side gores. Two long pieces with a little piecing at the top. Going well. Seam on the machine and prickstitching the seam allowance down by hand.
The wool is a small length which I had gotten before to make a shawl out of. It's a houndstooth check in black and yellow with green, blue and red highlights. Not anything I'd make a "real" dress out of, but it's a gorgeous light flowing wool, which I will use to throw on when I set-up and tear-down camp at Visby. Or for the first thing to throw on when I arrive at an event and don't want to spend half an hour dressing.
The idea is to replace the linen gown I made to be a kitchen slave at a Coronet tourney with a slightly more accurate and light-weight version in wool, so I am using the Greenland finds again, Herjolfsnes 39 detailed online by Marc I. Carlsson. My previous version I have described as the most boring dress ever, and it is tagged as linen herjolfsnes here on LJ. This version will be herjolfsnes39 wool, and as the fabric is yummy I think I'll like it a little more.
So far, I have cut out body panels (50 cm wide, 140 cm long), and gores, about 110 cm long and will end up adding something like 50 cm in four places to the hem. The sleeves are as yet not cut out, I didn't bring any sleeve patterns with me so I will have to wing it. Luckily since this is a very simple and non-fitted dress this will not be a big problem.
My goal is to have this finished for Visby. We'll see how that goes :)
so I downloaded the LJ app for my mobile. Maybe I'll start posting more again now. . .
At Double Wars I agreed to embroider a set of collar and cuffs for Countess Cecilia. She had seen one of my other shirts with assissi style embroidery with long-armed cross stitch creating a pattern of coronets in the voids and she wanted a similar set.
A week after Double Wars she sent me a piece of the fabric she was using for the rest of the shirts and I prepared and embroidered on them using my 60/2 silk from the Handweaver's Studio in London.
Previously to this I'd agreed to make a landsknecht shirt for Mistress Johanna with smocking. She wanted one to use as a working shirt, to be washable. I got a nice 50/50 linen/cotton which I've used before with good results and made up most of the shirt in short order, then proceeded to procrastinate on the smocking until the embroideries above were done. This week, however, I picked the almost finished shirt up again and finished the gathering and smocking stitches. A simple honeycomb for the cuffs and a little more intricate pattern for the collar. It's made from a very simple pattern which I haven't tried before with shirts. The shoulders are all in a line with the side seam and the collar is all made from the front and back panels which are simple rectangles. No shaping anywhere, except for the smocking. These shirts have a tendency to tear at the shoulder points after a while, so I've tried to reinforce those points without going overboard and making it uncomfortable.
Left to do on this shirt is now two sets of ties and it will be all done. I will either deliver it via SCA post or bring it with me to Cudgel War. At Cudgel I will also try to deliver a second chemise, of a Cranach kind to Lady Kerttu. I have a gorgeous light linen from Stoff&Stil which I have yet to try to work with but which I am sure will be a joy to sew.
Yeah.. lots of projects and none for me. I did pick up some lovely chocolate silk at Double Wars which will become a basic kirtle for me. I guess I won't start that until after Visby Medieval Week though, as before all of that I have a wool applique project to do. We (Helwig, Isabetta, William and myself) are making a heraldic gown for our Crown Princess and I've got one half to do. The pieces are all cut out, and the two halves are ready for applique. Isabetta and me did the two long side seams at the sewing circle on Saturday, as well as cut out the applique pieces. Now that the smocked shirt is done this will be my project and I'll be aiming to finish it before I go up to the Frozen North. It has a deadline of before Pennsic, but the dress needs to be put together as well. While up north I will hopefully do the Cranach chemise to finish and bring with me to Cudgel War. Although it does not have a hard deadline I work better if I do set a deadline.
I did also bring a security blanket - my camera - and the idea that I should take lots of photos. I did do that, but not so much that I was too busy to enjoy myself in the moment. I have worked in the past to find the balance between being present and documenting the present, and I feel pretty happy with having found the right mix.
Although this is still early days and the event was much smaller than usual and with almost all people I've known for a long time. However, if this is how it will be in the future as well, I can not imagine I will ever want to stop playing in the SCA.
Speaking of the camera, I shot over a thousand photos, but after two passes of going through and throwing out bad ones I'm now down to just over 400, and there'll be even fewer left after I'm done.
I've also made plans for attending my first Cudgel War! It is Aarnimetsä's own week-long camping event in an idyllic site outside of Åbo. I'm busily working on a number of small projects right now as well, all commissions for others with various deadlines. Currently, I'm doing some blackwork on two different garments, after that I'll be doing wool applique, then making shirts shirts shirts...
The last four years a very lovely lady has picked me, Helwig and our luggage up from the train station in Hässleholm and delivered us the final stretch to Double Wars. She does so selflessly and happily, and it's about time we make her something nice. So I suggested a shirt, which she can use to build her 16th century wardrobe on.
I got her measurements sometime in the fall, but was too busy with vigil and things to do anything about it. And then also working to prepare for Spring Crown. Now, there is an open vista leading up to Double Wars and I have looked through my stash and found a cut of linen (#42) which when cut up went perfectly into a shirt for this delightful lady.
The pieces were cut on Wednesday and I have already stitched the gusset to sleeves, and attached the sleeves to the body. Shoulder seams are done, and I am currently felling the second of the sleeve attachment seams. After that, it's just finishing off with collar and cuffs and making the front slit. We might embroider - it's not decided yet.
It was great fun to lay the fabric out and cut and start stitching.
I'll bring a basic wardrobe of two gowns, one plain and one fancy, plus accessories. Glad to have a car on loan for the weekend to get all the stuff there.
After the weekend we'll have new heirs in Drachenwald. Too bad I won't be able to make it to the coronation/20 years celebration. But I will be at Double Wars! Yay!
We went through his fabric stash and found a suitable green wool twill. He has used the fabric already to make a pair of 14th Century hose, and thought it was too loosely woven so we put it in the washing machine before we even started. This meant the cut that was left shrunk a little bit, and I ended up having to reduce the original size of the trouser legs, and add some piecings.
Piecing is totally period though, and with such small bits needed was fairly quick to attach as well. I used silk sewing thread to stitch the wool throughout. Starting with green, then switching to black when I ran out of green. Mostly, the thread disappears into the wool, so the tint doesn't really matter so long as it's dark enough.
The outer wool I patterned to be about three times the width of his waist, and the cuffs about twice the width of the knees. They should end at the knees, but the outer wool should bag a little, so I made them too long by about twenty centimetres. That meant that in order for the trousers to end at the knees the lining had to be made to fit. I basically cut those out as a pair of tight shorts, starting from the same pattern that we had made a toile of for the outer, cutting them down to fit closely to the leg, and end at the knee.
I first put together the linen lining, needing no piecings, and making them as carefully as I could to minimize the bulk of felled seams. I pressed every seam allowance to either side and folded them under in a double fold hem basically. There is not too much pressure put on these seams, so backstitching with waxed linen thread will keep them together just fine.
Before I could mount the legs to the waistband I had to put in the pockets. They are basically a rectangle with the lower third of one edge cut in a curve inward. That edge is where the opening is, and while I just used a backstitch to close up the rectangle I simply folded back the edges of the opening and pinned them to either side of the side-seams in the galligaskins. You have to be quite careful to stitch the pockets in, so it is firmly attached to both sides of the seam, and also make sure to reinforce the side seam where it needs to open for the pocket. I usually do a buttonhole bar across the small distance for strength. Both side pockets has the upper edge straight along the waistline, and I basted this to the linen lining carefully so that they would stay in the right position and not swing down.
Then I made a waistband all in wool with a linen interlining basted onto the wool and onto this waistband I mounted the trousers. I had to make one pleat in the linen to get the required width around. After this I could then mount the wool onto the waistband. It was pleated all the way around to distribute the fullness of the trousers at the waist. Basically I made box pleats out of the entire width, then closed up the upper raw edges of the legs inside the woolen waistband.
For the cuffs I did not have as much fullness to distribute, and I also made sure to leave the inside half of the legs, in between the knees, flat. There is no extra width here, as it would be very uncomfortable to have extra fabric in between your legs. So the pleats in the wool went all around the outside halves. For the cuff I had linen on the inside and wool on the outside making a finished cuff of just under an inch in width. The waistband ended up almost two inches high.
The fly closing was the last to be finished and for that I made a little buttonhole placket, with five buttonholes which I mounted on the outside of one side of the opening, and five self-fabric buttons which I mounted on the other side. The waistband itself I chose to close with two hooks and eyes to keep it as flat as possible, as the waistband right in the front is rather thick with many layers of wool.
I tried them on myself and looked especially fetching. They were also very comfy. Ed has tried them on as well, and they are now safely stored away in his historical clothes chest. He's a very poor model, so I haven't got any decent photos. I suspect I will not get any until the entire outfit is done and he can adorn it with his sharp things.
Still, an entire project started and finished!
I've stitched in the piecings, and sewn up the legs into tubes, felling all seam allowances down with herringbone stitch and a prick stitch. Just now I have the two legs stacked one inside the other to sew up the crotch seam and I'm feeling pretty good. I've taken a few in progress pictures which I will be posting later on.
I'm using silk thread to stitch the wool, the linen lining I used linen thread for. I still haven't cut out waistband or edge binding for the knees. I've also left the trouser legs open on the outside for the last two or three inches - in case I need to add buttons there for accesss.
The side seams are prepared for pockets as well - I basted the upper part of the seams before felling the edges so I can easily pick the stitches out and insert the pockets. I think I will want to do that before I gather the wool to the lining and waistband. But the waistband and gathering has to wait until I have my model here to try them on. That's what I had planned to do at Sewing Circle on Saturday and I am exactly where I need to be to be able to do it as well.
So tonight she came on over and I did the calligraphy on one backlogged scroll, an AoA. I used a basic textura hand and wrote out a fairly long text with no hand cramping problems at all. I attribute this to the two weeks of continual practice I put in in the beginning of December as a part of Lady Kerttu's initiative "Drachenwald 30 day challenge" which meant doing some one thing every day for thirty days. She wanted to learn a calligraphy hand and I thought I could do the same so I started learning an alphabet of capital letters. I got bored of that after the first few days so for the next ten days I wrote out little poems, rhymes and a letter using the new capital letter alphabet as well as my go-to batarde hand. I only managed 13 consequtive days before it got untenable. The problem I have with any craft in my home is that it's very small, and there are two of us here, so I can't just leave everything out on the kitchen table all the time, because then there is no room for us to eat.
Anyway, thanks to those two weeks of practice I got much better at handling the pen, and at writing the letters (obviously), so now, even thought the text was quite long, I had no problems at all with my hand cramping.
I took a picture of the finished item (#53 on my internal count), but it still needs signatures and giving out. I'll wait until it's been handed out to post it.
I also worked on a couple of my own backlogs, a PCS, which is entirely finished now, and a commission piece which just needs a little bit of penwork to be completely finished.
In other news, I've been sewing for Edricus lately. After some convincing he has agreed that he could possibly consider wearing some late period clothes. He wants a practical mid-16th century outfit with leg coverings to the knees not too poufy and not too tight, a warm practical doublet and a warm practical coat, plus a pimp coat. He's very into the pimp coat, and when I told him there's cotton velvet at the local fabric shop available he got very excited about the idea of a pimp coat. Basically, what he means is a Learned Man's Gown as we'd call it. He insist on pimp coat, though, and he's soo excited I let him have it.
Anyway, I started in the trouser-department, only because I laughed all through making my Venetians a few years back and I still grin whenever I see a picture of them, or think of me in them. (They are hilarious! I wore them one day at Visby this past summer, and every time a certain Chevalier walked past me he couldn't help himself from bipping the codpiece. I suggested he had one of his own to squeeze if he felt the need - he blushed, I lolled.)
Anyway, (I have to stop these ellipses), I was immediately inspired by the fabulous facebook group Elizabethan Costume, and one person there in particular who posted a picture of one pattern layout from the Anduxar pattern book which was a pair of trousers and a doublet laid out. They seemed to create the sort of look I was after so I measured my man and drafted the pattern according to the layout. I did this at last week's sewing circle, then I cut out the one leg and had him try it on and with a little bit of tweaking I had a pattern.
On Sunday I continued by making a pattern for the lining of the trousers, or "galligaskins". Since the outer fabric is meant to be gathered and pouf a little, the lining has to be a little shorter to allow the outer fabric to flow and fold nicely. I took the base pattern I created on Saturday, adjusted the length and waistband to fit Edricus more closely, tried them on and had to adjust the crotch seam. I made it deeper in front and shallower in back, and I also cut down the height of the front waist by about an inch. Then I cut this out in linen and machine basted them together. After trying them on I could also determine where the fly should start (lower than where I had stitched them).
On Sunday and Monday I took the linen lining apart and handstitched it back together, felling all seams. I have yet to cut out the outer fabric - but it will be in a forest green wool which we pre-washed to felt it a little bit. It shrunk, though, so I will have to piece the trousers. But seeing as the layout in Anduxar shows the trousers pieced there as well I am not too bothered about that. The only problem now is how exactly I should cut them from the fabric. Edricus also wants pockets, which will go in the sides, so I could cut them to include a side seam. I have laid the fabric and pattern out on my floor and started with the puzzle, but it fought me, and if I continue now, after the scribal night, I'm afraid I'd make silly mistakes. The plan will have to be to cut it from the cloth tomorrow.
Edricus is away in Visby the entire week, so I can't fit them on him until Saturday when the next sewing meetings is scheduled. I expect to be laughing all that day too :)
I got a top of wool sent to me from Australia, and am using that to stuff the ground covering stitches, to make it raised. For normal leaves and the smaller items a very small amount of wool fills them up nicely. I just strung it up in my big slate frame because I got tired of my tiny round frames, and it is so much nicer to work embroidery on the proper frame.
For the most part I intend to outline with chain stitch which I can anchor the other stitches to, but I've done a couple of shapes with no outlines done first following the stitch diagrams in the book "Elizabethan Stitches" by Jacqui Carey.
I had only one sleeve to set in, after I finished stitching down the lining over the first and topstitching the seam all around the armscye carefully on the first. Not until I had done these two sewing steps did I realized that I had just very carefully and securely attached the right sleeve in the left armscye. Wrong way round. It was very vexing, and I punished the dress by throwing it to the wall and stomping on it.
Then I had some tea.
Then I ripped out the careful stitching and removed the sleeve from the wrong armscye. Then pinned the sleeves in the right space, checking twice. I finished off the seams, covered the seam allowances with the lining and topstitched for extra strength. The very last thing to do was to measure and cut the sleeves to length and close off those raw edges. And now it is all finished and done and hanging off the back of my door. Tada - and yeah, it's very blingy:
In one of my fb groups about historical embroidery a lady was working on a brick stitch bag which was a gridded pattern with counted laurel wreaths on every other row of squares, and plans for charges from her own device in the other squares. I took the concept and ran with it.
I charted a pattern of my own from the picture she posted, as well as two different charges from Helwig's heraldry to do.
I used weaving wool from Borgs to do the gridwork. Green as outlines and fills with red and black wool, as well as a little blue and white 60/2 silk.
The grids are mostly filled in with 60/2 silk used double, except for two squares which I started in yellow wool before I came to my senses and switched to silk. I started the project before I had a firm idea. That should be a lesson for everyone: Plan before you execute.
The backgrounds are filled in with three patterns, all brick stitch. One two-four-two squares pattern, one two-four-six-four-two squares and the third is just mirroring the frame and shrinking. On the front of the pouch I did the heraldic patterns, on the back I just did the infills.
I also made tassles for the pouch. Four tiny ones along the bottom edge, and four larger ones. Two for the drawstrings that close the pouch, and two to anchor the carrying strap. The tassles are wool, the carrying string is silk, and the drawstring cords are wool and silk.
I lined the bag in linen, and for the drawstrings I left the ground fabric too long in the top, folded it down double and pushed an awl through the linen and pulled the strings in after. No oversewing or "proper" eyelets.
I've also been working on some medieval style bookmarks for the Gulf War giftbasket. Same kind I made for myself before christmas by using fifteen loops through a small rigid heddle. Weaving for a little bit and then braiding three cords with the loops at the end. The two edge cords are supposed to go just inside either cover, and the centre cord is the working bookmark so to speak.
I wrote an article for the January issue of the Dragon's Tale, which I was supposed to have written a long time ago. It's a write-up of the coif-set I made for Filippa. Anyway, it's published now, available in the DT and now also on my website.
Still, shows the progress: https://picasaweb.google.com/10700815781